Lube Points on Meyer Snow Plows
What you need to know.
Why Fluid Film? I have been using it for 10 years in the shop (and selling Fluid Film) and I am very happy with the results. It is great at preventing corrsion, and it is a good all around spray lube. It does not attract dirt and dust, and it looks much better than white grease. Also, for the past 10 years I have been using Fluid Film on all my electrical connections, plow plugs, trailer plug, battery terminals, etc. I also personally have no use for dielectric grease anymore in those locations. It builds up, attracts dirt, and makes a mess that is hard to remove. I have cleaned it out of many connectors to expose the green cancer on the pins and in the sockets. Since it is on customer vehicles, I can't say for sure the connections turned green even with dielectric grease, especially since so many people think putting dielectric grease on a connection, improves the connection. Newsflash, it does not. Dielectric grease is non-conductive, IF it conducted electricity, you would be creating short circuits, think about that..... So if your connection is green, it is beyond dielectric grease helping. That is a whole other topic, so.... IF you want to use WD-40, Lithium Spray Grease, or whatever you like in place of Fluid Film, feel free to do so. Some type of lubrication is better than none:) If you don't know where to get Fluid Film, well we sell it in our online store.
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For grease, I have been using Lucas Oil Red n' Tacky, also for almost 10 years now. I am very happy with the results. I am not telling you to run out and buy it, but if you do, you will not be disappointed. IF you want to use cheap "chassis grease", like I said above, it is better than no grease :). Grease your Pivot Pins, and King Bolt. In my case, I added a grease fitting to the bottom of my Sump Base, so I can grease it (I have removed more than one seized bolt that had to be cut on both sides with a Sawzall, and then driven out). I also added a grease fitting to my Lift Arm. To do this I had to weld a little "Hershey Kiss" on it first, because the wall thickness of the sleeve is too thin, the fitting would hit the bolt. With the little dab of weld, grind a flat on it, drill and tap, and install a grease fitting.
Let's start at the top of the picture. I spray the Trip Spring Eyes. The Lift Arm on both sides, though I installed a grease fitting on my Lift Arm so I grease it instead.Then we have the bottoms of the Trip Springs, All of the Coils on the pump, the Hose end fittings (because they will rust FAST) and the base of the pump where the bottom bolt goes through (though I installed a grease fitting on the front of mine that you cannot see in this picture). I want to point out the same holds true for the E-72 if that is what you have, spray the Coils and Hose ends, and the bottom Lift Cylinder bolt, just the same. We are trying to keep ALL the pivot points lubed. It will cut down on wear and strange noises when lifting the plow (groaning / squeaking sounds). Spray BOTH ends of the PA Rams where the bolts go through. The Mounting Pins and Springs, where the Lift Stop (Stacking) Bolts hit the top of the A Frame, the Clevis Pins that hold the plow to the Lift Frame, and finally, the crossbar at the back of the Lift Frame that goes into the notch in the bottom of the Universal Clevis on the truck. These are all pivot points or wear points.
When you buy a quart of fluid, (at least here) we give you a spout for each quart. The spout comes with a red cap on it, that will NEVER go back onto the spout, becuase unless you want to take a 1/2 hour to add fluid, you are going to cut it at a lower point where the cap will never be of use again for its intended purpose. Guess what? Those little red caps fit perfectly on most grease fittings :). Depending on how much fluid you use, you will always have spares (I have a lifetime supply), because on a plow, they definitely fall off, or get knocked off from time to time. While they are on there they keep grit and dust from sticking to the fitting, and help keep out moisture.
Storing your plow in the off season
Now all of these points should be lubed when you go to store your plow for the off season. In addition, the exposed chrome on the PA Rams should be coated with grease, paying special attention to smearing it around where the chrome rod comes out at the Packing (Gland) Nut. This will help prevent the packings from drying out. The same for the Lift Ram where it comes out of the hydraulic unit. Coat the exposed chrome, and smear a bead around it where the Lift Ram comes out.
Meyer instructions to this day (have not changed) tell you to raise the Lift Ram all the way for storage because it fills the Lift Cylinder with fluid (preventing corrosion) and then you can coat the chrome on the Lift Ram to prevent corrosion there. Well with the EZ Plus and MDII plows, when dismounting, they tell you to push the Lift Arm down all the way by hand, so there is slack in the chain for when you go to mount the plow. The only way to raise it would be to dismount the plow, but leave it plugged in. Then you would have to remove the chains, then go in the cab, and "raise the plow" to extend the Lift Ram. This is ridiculous. Leave it pushed down all the way by hand, and coat what is exposed with grease. IF you were to follow Meyer instructions, keep this in mind; while you did fill the Lift Cylinder inside with fluid, you also made the level of fluid in the Reservoir (Tank) drop. In my experience, condensation will more likely form in the Tank, and rust the inside of it. It is better to have the tank full, Lift Ram down, and "seal" the Lift Ram at the top with grease.
Nite Saber Lights?
The following is not a dig at Meyer. IF you have Nite Saber, Nite Saber II, or Nite Saber III plow lights, you need to open the back cover, and spray down the inside with Fluid Film. The wire terminals are NOT sealed inside the light, and the spring clips that hold the bulbs in will corrode horribly without protection. You have been warned. The Meyer Warranty (which is great overall) does not cover corrosion of any type on any part. Preventing corrosion is YOUR job. Since there is nothing (water / salt spray) to wash off the Fluid Film inside the light, every two years would be fine to check and spray again if necessary. Remember the screws that hold the back door on are threaded into plastic, and do NOT overtighten them! Use a hand screwdriver to install the screws. You can remove them with a cordless if you like, but put them back in by hand. The pictures below are from a broken Nite Saber II that was less than a year old (by a few weeks). You can see the corrosion starting on the uninsulated ground terminal. Why ALL of the electrical connections on the plow are perfectly sealed with much effort put into sealing them, and then inside the light they are not, is beyond me. There is a 1/4" drain hole in the bottom of the light housings, so they are not "sealed". I can verify the current Nite Saber III lights are not sealed inside either, and use the same internal connections as the Nite Saber II lights. The Nite Saber III Lights have an internal steel support bracket that connects the mount to the back door for more strength, but again, they did not improve the wiring connections inside the light. More info on the Nite Saber III Lights.
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AUTHORIZED MEYER FULL LINE DISTRIBUTOR
Entire site Copyright 2018 Smith Brothers Services, LLC All Rights Reserved
Our Other Sites:
Author: Chuck Smith
Common Misspellings: Meyers, Mayer, Mayers, Myer, Myers, Maier, Maiers, Meijer.