Meyer Toggle Switch Wiring
Here is a diagram of the Meyer Toggle Switch Wiring.
(Looking at the back of the switches)
|To:||Must Have Power|
|Raise||Red and White Wires|
|Right||Green and White Wires|
A Coil - On pump, Black Wire - Controls Lower
B Coil - On pump, Red Wire - Controls Raise
C Coil - On pump, Green Wire - Controls Right
Motor Solenoid - Under Hood, White Wire - Turns on plow Motor
Left angle is default. If the motor runs and no valves open, the plow goes left.
On older Toggle control harnesses the power wire
was black with an inline 20 amp glass fuse.
On newer Toggle control harnesses the power wire is black with an inline 20 amp ATC fuse.
There is no ground wire for toggle switch controls.
Here is a look at the back of the plugs that the switches plug in to.
Older Meyer Motor Solenoids had a single small terminal, where the white wire is connected. The Mounting Bracket on the Motor Solenoid had to be mounted to a good ground for the Motor Solenoid to work properly. The current Meyer Motor Solenoid has two small terminals, the White wire goes to the ( S ) Terminal, and the ( I ) Terminal must be grounded for the Motor Solenoid to work properly.
And finally, for all those who call us wanting to use "normal" on/off toggles to work the pump, NO. It is not that simple.
The Raise/Lower switch is (ON) OFF ON. The (ON) means it is a momentary switch in that position. When you press it up, it will run the motor until you let go, then it spring returns to the center OFF Position. When you push it down, it will lock ON in the down position to allow the plow to "Float" and follow the contour of the pavement. It does this by sending power to the A Coil, holding the A valve open. THIS is why the A Coil and A Valve see so much use. Every other function (up, left, right) is for a few seconds.
The Angle switch is (ON) OFF (ON) indicating that each of the (ON) positions are momentary. When you press the switch in either direction, it will run the motor until you let go, then it will spring return to the center OFF position.
Additionally, BOTH switches have the center power terminal bonded, feeding both poles of the switch.
Now I know someone out there is reading this because they want to make their own harness. We have supplies to help you do just that. At the top of this page is the diagram, looking at the back of the switches. We are selling a kit that includes the (2) Sockets, and (8) Terminals you would need to make your own harness. I also made a video showing how to crimp the Terminals on. No script, the battery died, the text I added to the video appears at the wrong time. Not my best video for sure, but it will be helpful I am sure. Of course if you have the fancy crimpers, use them. Most people do not, but they do have the tools I use in the video with the exception of the tooth crimper. MOST crimpers have a tooth, but it might not work for this application. I am sure you can find a cheaper tool than the T & B I use. Maybe Klein Tools makes one as well? I am sure a big box store sells one that will work.
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12/08/2013 05:41:29 PM
Common Misspellings: Meyers, Mayer, Mayers, Myer, Myers, Maier, Maiers.