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Added 3-2-16

Search Phrases That Brought Visitors to MeyerPlows.info
January / February 2016

Well it seems there was two common problems back in January and February 2016 with Meyer plow pumps. These are some of the phrases that people searched that brought them to one of our sites looking for help.

what does it mean when meyer touch pad trianle turns red - Overload
meyer snow plow plow won t move float light stays on - Touchpad is shot.
what would causeba meyer plow pump to not go down - Bad A Coil, A Valve, or frozen.
why won t a meyer plow go down - Bad A Coil, A Valve, or frozen.
what does it mean when the red light lifhts on the meyers plow sqitch - WOW! Typing on a phone? Overload.
meyer e57h touchpad overload causes - See below.
what red light mean on meyers plow controller - Overload
e-47 will not raise warning light on controller -Overload
myers plow flashing two red lights not working - See Pistol Grip Controller link below.
why would meyers snow plow move slow angling and up? - Water in fluid freezing.
meyers hand controler red warning - Overload
meyer snow plow pump oil is milky - Water in system. Drain and flush COMPLETE system.
what happens when meyer snow plow freezes up - Depending on how much water is in it, it could crack the cast aluminum Sump Base. It could also work fine once thawed.
meyers snow plow not moving any direction - IF the motor runs, it is out of fluid or frozen.
meyers plow wont sit flat when turned - Mount height on truck too high or too low.
meyer touchpad problems - Overload is the #1 "problem", but it is to protect the controller from damage.
meyers plow won t lower green light flashes - Green light? You mean RED Monitor light?
meyer e60 wont when its cold - Water in fluid freeezing up.
i changed all my valves on my meyer e47 pump and i still cant get it to go up - Why would you change all the Valves? There is only one to go up. Frozen, low pump pressure, controller problem all could be the cause.
meyer e47 plow wont raise - No fluid, weak motor, frozen.
meyers e47 does not move - Frozen.
myer e60 wont lift - Frozen
what causes snow plow to make noise from motor but not move No fluid, frozen.
meyer snow st remote stuck in overload - See below.
when i push the down button on my meyers snow plow controller it flashes a red light and meyer e47 wont go down - Replace the A Coil, it is pulling too many amps.
myers snow plow slow in down mode - Frozen fluid, or it is an E-60 and the drop speed screw is too far in.
meyers e-60 wont go down - Frozen.
why is my meyer plow wont go down - Frozen.
meyers snow plow wont go down / e60 Frozen.
why won t my meyers plow go down - Frozen, bad A Coil.
warning lights go on on meyers touchpad - Overload
meyer controller overload light keeps coming on - See below.
meyer e 47 pump wont go down - See below.
meyers e60 showing overload light on down button - Replace A Coil.
overload on meyers plow mean - See below
meyer plow wont go down - See below

I have explained it hundreds of times. so I may as well explain it on this web page, and hope people find the answer they are looking for. It seems there is a common problem with up and down functions, and in some cases all functions. Lets start with the #1 reason for these problems... LACK OF MAINTENENCE. Plain and simple. If you can't recall the last time you changed the fluid in your Meyer plow pump, that is the problem. If you changed it last year, that is the probllem. If you changed it a few years ago, that is your problem. I will speak in general terms saying that all brands of low temp hydraulic oil contain some type of deicer to help prevent freeze ups. Each quart of fluid can absorb ABOUT an ounce of water. When it does, the fluid turns a milky color. That means it is time to change the fluid! It also means you want to know how and why the water got into the system, because it is going to happen again. Until you find the source, you might have to change the fluid a few times during the winter, depending on how much you use your plow. Any low temp hydraulic oil is better than ATF (Automatice Transmission Fluid) in that it is meant to not thicken at lower temps. ATF DOES get thick at lower temps, and there is nothing to warm it up. Many years ago when plow pumps were mounted on the engine under the hood it was common to run ATF in the system. Those days are LONG gone. Back then, the fluid would get warmed by the heat of the engine. Again, out in front of the grill in the breeze, slush, and snow, there is nothing to warm the fluid. Not enough for it to matter. 99% of the time you are using a plow it is below 32 degrees.

One of the things about water in a plow hydraulic system is that often it will go unnoticed, because the plow keeps working. This is because of that deicer in the fluid. It only works to a certain point. Typically once it gets into the teens or colder, the problems will start. The fluid will turn to slush. Slush does not flow through the filter screens inside the unit. When you pull he filters from a unit that had slush in it you will usually find that for some reason, the filter screens are crushed. Rightfully so, the slush is a "solid" pushing against a screen, so the force crushes the screen. The screens can also crush from being clogged with debris, but we are discussing ice here. So you came to this site trying to find an answer, and I will give you the blunt answer.... MAINTAIN YOUR EQUIPMENT.



Now lets talk about the red overload (Monitor) light. The newer (around 2013 & newer) Touchpad Controllers make it easier for you. The red light blinks, you count the blinks, turn the controller over, and on the back it tells you what color wire to check. The older Touchpad controllers, you have to pay attention. IF as soon as you turn it on, the red light comes on, then it is the Motor Solenoid under the hood that is pulling too many amps. It could be the Solenoid itself, or it could be a corroded connection of the small white trigger wire that is causing the overload. Connections need to be clean and tight. Corrosion can also travel up inside the wire creating additional resistance.

ALL Meyer plow Touchpad controllers have built in calculations for each function of how many amps it should take to perform that function. The overload light means one of them is pulling too many amps. Which one? Well here are the basics:


Up - Motor Solenoid and B Coil (red wire) get power.
Down - A Coil (black wire) gets power.
Left - Motor Solenoid (small white wire) gets power.
Right - Motor Solenoid and C Coil (green wire) get power.

Now, you can see that for two of the functions, BOTH a Coil and the Motor Solenoid are getting power (and the Touchpad is monitoring just how much each is drawing). So those two are going to have a slightly higher calculation of allowed amperage than the other two functions. This makes the other two (down and left) more sensitive. The other thing to keep in mind is that any time the plow is on the ground ,and that Float light is lit on the Touchpad, the A Coil is getting power. So in the grand scheme of things, the A Coil is getting power holding the A Valve open for hours (in total sometimes) while you are out plowing. Because when you raise or angle the plow, it is only running the motor (and using a Coil to open a Valve) for a few seconds. So the A Coil easily sees 20 times the use (or maybe even more) than the B and C Coils. This is why it will fail first. This is why the A Coil is the #1 reason for the overload light to come on with the Touchpad Controller. Pay attention to what button you press that causes the red light to come on. Then look above at the functions I listed and what color wires are used for each function. Check them.

Now to complicate things a little, the original Meyer Touchpad controller was square, and had a smooth face. It was an analog controller. There was no real digital circuitry inside it. Around August 2001, Meyer switched to a digital Touchpad ontroller with raised buttons and it was more of a rectangular shape. In addition to measuring amp draw for each function, it also constantly senses continuity. What this means is if you go out to the pump and unplug one of the Coil wires, the controller will "know" and light the red overload light. So for testing, you can't unplug wires. It also will not work if the controller does not have a good ground. The controller grounds via the orange wire that comes out of the harness under the hood near the Motor Solenoid. This connection needs to be clean and tight.

Additionally, each Coil grounds via the nut that holds it on. So if the nut is a rusty mess, it could be a ground problem. Nine times out of ten if you try to loosen the nut on the B or C Valve to remove the Coil, you will snap the stud off the Valve and be buying a new Valve. Here in the shop we always use a nutsplitter to crack the nut and 99.9% of the time avoid snapping the stud off. The stud is then cleaned with a die and wire brush. A new BRASS nut is installed with antiseize to make service easier in the future. To further help prevent corrosion, the brass nut is capped with a dab of clear silicone.








The Touchpad only knows how many amps each function should draw. It does not know anything mechanical. It won't tell you a Valve is bad, or a Coupler is bad, or if you have water in the unit that froze. Again, it senses amp draw, and circuit continuity.

The square plastic A Coil that Meyer came out with in September 2003 was quickly scrapped as a "running change" because it was unreliable junk. IF you have a square plastic A Coil, its days are numbered.




Additionally, ANYTHING that can create resistance like a bad butt splice connector that can promote corrosion needs to be addressed.


IF you strip a wire, and it is discolored, it needs to be replaced, PERIOD. Don't make a half assed repair and then wonder why you are having problems that you brought on yourself.




Meyer Pistol Grip Controller Flashing Red Light - If you have a Pistol Grip you can find more specific info here.

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